Key West was a thriving port and strategic military position more than half a century before the railroad opened the door to even greater development. Ponce de Leon had been there in 1513 and the island was settled by the Indians long before that, but they left shortly after the Spanish arrived. The 19th century wreckers, who saved the crews and salvaged the cargoes of ships that ran afoul of the reefs surrounding the Florida Keys, were important to the region's economy. The oldest existing structure in Key West, the 1829 Wrecker's Museum (322 Duval St.; 305-294-9502), houses artifacts from the wrecking industry. It belonged to Capt. Francis Watlington and today houses period furniture and artifacts from the wrecking industry.

Mel Fisher's Maritime Museum (200 Greene St., 305-294-2633) displays artifacts recovered from the Spanish treasure fleet sunk off Florida in a 1622 hurricane. The Key West Lighthouse Museum (938 Whitehead St.; 305- 294-0012) is filled with artifacts related to the maritime history of Key West. You can climb the 88 steps to the top for a great view of the city.

The U.S. government set its sites on Key West in the1840s as home to one in a chain of forts constructed to protect the nation's coastline from Maine to Texas. Construction of Fort Zachary Taylor (Truman Annex at Southard St.; 305-292-6713) began in 1845 and was completed in 1866. Its five-foot-thick walls rose 50 feet above the water. It originally stood 1,000 feet offshore and had a desalination plant to convert seawater to drinking water. Park rangers lead guided tours.

A related site is the East Martello Tower (3501 S. Roosevelt Blvd.; 305-296-3913). Built in 1862 to protect Fort Zachary Taylor from Confederate attack, it now functions as a historical museum and gallery for Key West folk artists.

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